We recently adopted a cat from a no-kill, cage-free cat rescue group. Besides a nasty experience with the adoption manager (which I’ll write about soon), I came away with a number of concerns. I’ve volunteered for and adopted from a traditional animal shelter, and the thought of a cage-free rescue has always sounded alluring; however, my experience gave me a harsh reality check that makes me doubt that cage-free cat shelters are a good thing at all.

The first thing I noticed about the rescue was the smell. The odor reaches your nostrils well before you can even see a cat. The cats are grouped into community rooms according to age, size, and temperament. The Humane Society of the United States recommends not exceeding a group size of 10 to 12 cats in order to “allow effective monitoring and reduced risk of conflict as well as decreased infectious disease transmission.” (This comes from the 2010 Guidelines for Standards of Care in Animal Shelters from the Association of Shelter Veterinarians.) However, this particular rescue houses almost twice that number in some rooms. When we visited with the cat we considered adopting, I was unable to count the number of cats in the room. This also made it difficult to spend one-on-one time with our candidate because of other cats vying for our attention.

The room itself was spacious, although not quite enough for the number of cats in the room. HSUS recommends 18 square feet for each cat, as well as adequate access to resources. The food and water bowls were mostly in one area. Two of the walls were lined with large plastic containers mounted in PVC pipe filled with litter for the cats to use. There didn’t appear to be a litter box alternative for cats who might suffer from joint or other mobility issues. The urine odor was so strong partly because some of the cats had been marking scratching posts, perches, and the walls, even though they were all spayed/neutered. Many of the cats in each room also appeared to be suffering from some type of upper respiratory issue, as they had squinting, runny eyes and sneezed frequently.

The rescue, like many, is run mostly by volunteers, which is a blessing but also a curse. While it’s wonderful that people volunteer to help homeless cats, there’s a lot less accountability for volunteers than for employees. If an employee doesn’t show up for work or does a poor job, that person will face punishment and/or termination. Employees are often required to have some type of experience and undergo specific job training. At the shelter I volunteered for, volunteers were not permitted in the designated quarantine areas. Employees not assigned to that area were also not supposed to enter. This lowered the risk of spreading illnesses.

Cats were also separated by cages and given their own separate food/water bowls and litter boxes. Not only did this further lower the risk of spreading disease, it also lowered resource guarding and gave shelter staff the opportunity to better evaluate each cat’s behavior and health. Obviously, this is very difficult, if not impossible, in a cage-free cat shelter.

The cat we adopted, who we named Deuce, seemed very grumpy and afraid on his exit evaluation. We gave him some time to adjust to his new surroundings, but soon it became apparent something wasn’t right. Although he was still eating and drinking well, his litter box use wasn’t consistent. He also was drooling, squinting, and was entirely too lethargic. The rescue had labeled him a lazy/grumpy cat, but I wanted to have him checked for an underlying cause for his issues.

Sure enough, the vet diagnosed Deuce with a severe upper respiratory infection. He had a lot of inflammation and a fever. Thanks to good vet care, he has since returned to “normal,” playing with his new cat toys and exploring his new surroundings.

Perhaps the rescue I visited is on the bad end of the spectrum when it comes to cage-free facilities. While I’m sure the intentions of the people running it were pure, the facility is lacking in many areas.

Have you ever visited a cage-free cat shelter? What was your impression? Tell us about it in the comments below.

Featured Image Credit: Yulia Grigoryeva, Shutterstock

The post Let’s Talk: Are Cage-Free Cat Shelters a Good Thing? by Meghan Lodge appeared first on Catster. Copying over entire articles infringes on copyright laws. You may not be aware of it, but all of these articles were assigned, contracted and paid for, so they aren't considered public domain. However, we appreciate that you like the article and would love it if you continued sharing just the first paragraph of an article, then linking out to the rest of the piece on Catster.com.

When people use my guest bathroom, they’re always curious as to what the mysterious dome is next to the toilet. They’re surprised when I tell them that it’s the cats’ litter box.

“Wow … but it doesn’t smell like you have a cat!” they’ll exclaim.

It certainly struck me as odd, but I finally realized what they meant when I visited someone else’s home that had a cat. They didn’t follow the same cleaning procedures that I do, and I was aware of their cat’s presence the moment I walked in the front door. It wasn’t the cat himself that smelled — it was the litter box, a vile, odorous thing piled high in nondescript clumps of kitty waste.

We humans use toilets. We flush away waste almost as quickly as it happens, and we keep our toilets scrubbed clean. Cats don’t have the luxury. They use the boxes we provide for them, and they are subject to our whim at the cleanliness of those boxes. Some cat owners trying to avoid odor will often buy the “odor control guarantee” or “seven-day odor free guarantee” litters. When those fail to control the odor, they resort to air fresheners. Here’s a tip: If your litter box is surrounded by air fresheners, you’re doing something wrong.

First of all, cats can be sensitive and finicky creatures. They aren’t likely to be happy about all of these extra odors around their area. They’re even less likely to be happy about a smelly litter box. If the box gets bad enough, they’ll refuse to use the box, choosing to soil carpets, rugs, or other “cleaner” areas. It’s important to follow a simple but thorough cleaning routine for your litter box. Here are three tips:

1. Scoop your box daily

There is absolutely no reason to leave your cat’s waste in the box. Scoop it now! Some people opt for individual baggies for each scooping. Other methods include devices such as the Litter Locker II. Scoop the box, place waste in Litter Locker, pull lever, call it a day. Remember to clean the Litter Locker thoroughly with an enzyme cleaner each time you put in a new bag refill. Keep your scoop clean, as well.

2. No less than once a month, empty your litter box and wash it

Use an enzyme cleaner to thoroughly clean any remnants of urine or fecal proteins from the box. If you don’t believe it’s there, get a handheld UV light. You’ll be simultaneously amazed and disgusted. Clean the floor and surrounding surfaces where the box was. Dry the box thoroughly and fill with fresh litter. To help with odor and absorbency, you can sprinkle some unscented baking soda in the very bottom prior to putting litter in the box.

It’s also vital to use a quality litter. Now, when I say “quality,” that doesn’t automatically equal “expensive.” What you’re looking for is a litter that your cat will like (texture), preferably low- or non-scented, and one that quickly and tightly clumps around waste. This makes it easier to scoop, and it also cuts down on remnant odors as you’re not leaving little bits of waste here and there.

3. Use a UV light to identify any areas outside of the litter box that the cat has soiled

The proteins in the urine will glow bright yellow/yellowish green on fresh stains. Treated or old stains will appear as a dull yellow. Thoroughly clean soiled areas with an enzyme cleaner made specifically for cat urine. If your box is clean and your cat still refuses to use it, it’s possible that your cat doesn’t like the placement of the box, or they may have a medical condition. Urinary tract infections (UTIs) are a major cause of cats urinating outside of the litter box, and, as they can quickly turn into a worse infection, it’s important to see your vet if you suspect your cat has a UTI.

Remember, scoop your litter box at least once a day, clean the box, scoop, clean any other related items regularly with an enzyme cleaner, and use a quality litter. A clean litter box makes for a happier, healthier cat and an odor-free home for you!

Read related stories on Catster: 

• The 5 Stages of Feline Urinary Tract Blockage
• Peeing Outside the Litter Box: When Your Cat Needs the Vet
• What Causes Bladder Infections in Cats?

About Meghan Lodge: Fits the Aquarius definition to a fault, loves animals, and is always pushing for change. Loves ink, whether it’s in tattoos, books, or writing on that pretty sheet of blank paper. Proud parent of Toby (cat) and Axle (dog). I’m a former quiet nerd who’s turned bubbly animal-obsessed advocate.

The post How To Reduce Your Cats Litter Box Smell by Meghan Lodge appeared first on Catster. Copying over entire articles infringes on copyright laws. You may not be aware of it, but all of these articles were assigned, contracted and paid for, so they aren't considered public domain. However, we appreciate that you like the article and would love it if you continued sharing just the first paragraph of an article, then linking out to the rest of the piece on Catster.com.

Let’s face it: Our cats are demanding creatures who want our undivided attention, usually at the most inopportune times. My cat has decided that it is necessary to save his humans’ lives by keeping them awake at night. Clearly, we need to stay up and hunt the squeaky bird with him, prowl the house for intruders, and pounce on unsuspecting lumps under the cover.

1. The squeaky bird

Toby loves playing with the pretty little hummingbird that makes a squeaky noise every time he touches it. He bounces it around, pounces on it, and carries it around like it’s his prize kill. Unfortunately, he also uses it to try to get our attention at night. He’ll snatch it up from whatever end of the house he left it, gallop at full speed, launch himself onto the bed, and shake the hummingbird in my husband’s face, then mine, until one of us gets the bird away from him and hides it.

2. The rattling door

There’s no locking Toby out of the room at night. He likes to be with us, and there’s no chance he’ll let you rest in peace if you shut the door in his face. He will grab the door with his paws and rattle the door all night, while mewing pitifully as loud as he can. You’d be amazed at how long a cat can rattle a door. (Hint: All night long.)

3. The attacking ninja

Lumps and bumps under the cover are the enemy. The goal? Eliminate them in as few strokes as possible. The strategy? Get a running start and bounce off each lump with claws out and in full action. The bumps shift rather than disappear, of course, because those bumps are my feet and my husband’s feet.

4. The whisker whisper

If you remembered to leave the door open, hide the squeaky bird and tuck your feet under the body pillow I’ve wedged at the bottom of the bed, Toby is likely to resort to what I refer to as “whisker whispering” to awaken you. You must be awakened because you MUST pay him attention. He will get right in your face, tickling you with his whiskers, and mew so quietly it’s hardly a sound at all, but it’s juuust enough to bring your out of your dreams of sandy beaches or whatever your peaceful place is.

5. The balancing act

If all else fails, Toby will amuse himself by practicing his balance. That means bravely treading across the edge of the dresser, teetering over the posts on the foot board, and walking the narrow stretch of the headboard. After all, your body will break his fall so there’s no reason for him to be afraid. Once he tires of these death-defying feats, he’ll walk over my husband’s sleeping body and then climb up mine until he finds the perfect spot to curl up and go to sleep, finally leaving me in peace to fall back asleep … just in time for the baby to wake up or the alarm to go off.

What do your cats like to do while you’re sleeping? Let me know in the comments!

Learn more about your cat with Catster:

• Weird Cat Facts: 8 Reasons Your Cat Likes to Lick You
• 10 Sounds That Cats Make — and What They Mean
• 8 Things to Try When Your Cat Won’t Eat

About Meghan Lodge: Fits the Aquarius definition to a fault, loves animals, and is always pushing for change. Loves ink, whether it’s in tattoos, books, or writing on that pretty sheet of blank paper. Proud parent of Toby (cat) and Axle (dog). I’m a former quiet nerd who’s turned bubbly animal-obsessed advocate.

The post Why Is My Cat Annoying At Night When I’m Sleeping: 5 Annoying Things by Meghan Lodge appeared first on Catster. Copying over entire articles infringes on copyright laws. You may not be aware of it, but all of these articles were assigned, contracted and paid for, so they aren't considered public domain. However, we appreciate that you like the article and would love it if you continued sharing just the first paragraph of an article, then linking out to the rest of the piece on Catster.com.